Counted amongst the six most important monasteries of Sikkim, Phodang Monastery is located in the town of Phodang, some 38 km away from Gangtok in the northern direction. The monastery stands on a ridge, a km away from the main road.
The history of the monastery states that it was first constructed by Chogyal Gyurmed Namgyal in the first half of the eighteenth century. However, the structure that you will see today, is not the original one. The new structure is a pretty recent construction and hence does not give an appearance of being very old one. Infact, the monastery is rated as one of the most beautiful monastry of the state.
The history of the monastery also reveals that it was once the most important of three Kagyu monasteries in Sikkim. But when the 16th Karmapa settled at Rumtek, post his flight from Tibet, the significance of this monastery dwindled.
Currently, the Phodong Monastery, is one of the most visited monasteries of Sikkim. It houses around 260 monks of the Kagyu lineage. The monastery is a set of a simple square main temple and several outhouses as well as residential quarters. Inside, colourful murals will completely overwhelm you.
Festival
The main festival of the monastery, Loosang, marks the end of the Tibetan year and celebrates the onset of the new year. It is celebrated on the 28th and 29th day of the 10th Tibetan month (around December). The festival sees the performances of the religious dances known as Chaams along with feasting and archery contests.
Phodong
The town of Phodong is located in the close vicinity of the Sikkimese capital, Gangtok, hence it is approachable. The town is famous for two monasteries - Phodong and Labrang, both of which are quiet at a walkable distance from one another. The people of Phodong are primarily occupied in farming, however, offlate, tourism has also started picking up giving the people an alternative to choose from. As of today, for tourists like you, Phodong is mainly an eating place. It is here that the tourists halt in their journey to explore north Sikkim and enjoy a hearty meal. Phodong also provides a couple of good staying option incase you decide to stay overnight. Hotel "Yak and Yeti" and Hotel "Northway" are the places where you can enjoy the open hospitality of the locals and taste the warm "Chhang" (a local beverage).
Other Attractions
- Labrang Monaster : A 4 km walk up the hill from the Phodong Monastery will lead up to Labrang Monastery. This monastery is associated with the Nyingma-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and its name literally translates into "the Lamas dwelling". The monastery is special because it is one of those monasteries in the state that have managed to preserve the original structure built. The open space around is perfect for religious gatherings. It was declared sacred in the memory of Latsun Chembo of Kongpu of Tibet, who not only introduced but also propagated the Nyingma-pa sect of Buddhism in Sikkim.
- Tumlong : The erstwhile capital of Sikkim (in most part of the 19th century), the ruins of Tumlong occupy the area between the Phodong and Labrang Monastery. The palace here is not well preserved, actually it is in ruins. Nonetheless, the chortens around make your visit worthwhile. Despite the passagae of time, the chortens still stand today with same charm.
How to Reach
By Air - Bagdogra Airport in West Bengal is 124 km from Gangtok. Flight from here connect to destinations like Kolkata, Delhi, Guwahati and Patna. From Bagdogra and Siliguri, private taxis run for Gangtok. Alternatively, daily helicopter services connect Bagdogra and Gangtok as well. The helicopter leave Bagdogra for Gangtok between 1 pm to 3 pm.
By Rail - New Jalpaiguri is the nearest railhead from Gangtok at a distance of 125 km. Tickets can be booked at the Sikkim National Transport (SNT) Bus Stand counter where a special quota is alloted for trains at New Jalpaiguri. Trains from New Jalpaiguri connect to both Delhi and Kolkata.
By Road - Gangtok is linked to the rest of the country by road mainly from Siliguri. From Siliguri, you can proceed first on NH 31 and then shift to NH 31 A to reach Gangtok. Roadways also connect Gangtok from Kalimpong (75 km) and Darjeeling (98 km). From Gangtok, shared jeeps and buses are available to transfer you to Phodong.